Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Final day

So I come to my final day before I set off home in the morning for the mammoth journey which includes eight hours in Kuala Lumpur.

This morning was an optional trip to the Tonle Sap Floating village to get an insight into how the locals really lived. Off the main road, the roads are just tracks of mud and dust and we passed numerous farms and saw the small houses that the people live in. We stopped at one village, I did not want to be intrusive and go in the houses but met some of the locals and children and observed they trying to dry the rice from the fields without the chickens eating it all.












Onto the floating village and we took a boat ride organised by the co operative of e village, so the money we sent goes straight to them and not to the tour operators. The lifestyle is amazing and all geniuses are floating and anchored to their current spot. When the rain comes in a few weeks, they will need to move their houses. The village has it's own school and shops. They also have their own fishing farms and alongside their houses they have floating pens where they keep pigs and chickens. They also have a crocodile farm here where awe stopped for some drinks and shopping.

It's amazing to see people still living this primitive way but this is a country where following it's wars and atrocities, the local people have lost all their skills. The general public is very young and mostly under 30 as so many elders were killed and during the genocide in the seventies, all educated people were killed or fled. This is why it is so important here that the children are educated so that they can get work in the towns and move away from a life from what at the moment they know no difference. As generations of educated people come through, this country will change and the people will start to gain better lifestyles. Having said that, they are a cheerful nation and the kids and adults alike are full of smiles and greetings.















This afternoon some of us visited a local project where deaf and dumb children are taught sills such as sculpturing, wood work and painting with the purpose of giving them the skills that allow them to return their villages and practice a trade.







Later this afternoon, a few of us visited the local killing fields of Siem Reap. The site was once a school which the Krumer Rouge took over as a prison during the period of genocide. The prison remains but is now a monastery and the site has had new buildings erected by the monastery. During excavation of the site the skeletons of the Genocide victims that were found in the fields are collected in a memorial. Many more bodies we're probably never found. It's a thoughtful memorial, which whilst shocking at first site to see all the bones collected together, is stood next to a temple where respects can be paid to the victims. The story is shocking, the atrocities real, but it is important to remember this time and to hope that never again in our life times will some thing so evil be allowed to occur, any where in the world. Everyone should visit one of the killing field memorials whilst in Cambodia and pay their respects to a nation that despite everything they have endured in the past years is a nation of people with dignity, perseverance, grace, humility and full of people who are always willing to give you a big smile.















It is also important to the community that westerners do travel to Cambodia. Not only does our spending help their economy but our presence gives them security as nothing bad is about to happen if we are present in their country.

So as my adventure comes to a close, I have to say this has been one of the most enlightening, humbling, educational, and interesting experiences of my life. Both Vietnam and Cambodia have had a troubled past and we are now seeing them get through this and grow as nations, whilst still remaining under some oppressive regimes. I thought I was coming to see temples. I have seen far more than this. I have laughed and cried. I have been amazed by the wonders of the sites and people and equally as shocked by the history. I have learnt more about politics, history and humanity than I ever learnt at school. This experience will stay with me forever and I recommend to everyone to come here and see for yourselves.

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Location:National Route 6 (Airport Road),Siem Reap,Cambodia

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Angkor

So finally, the whole reason for me wanting to come to Cambodia came today as we went to the Angkor Wat. I was not disappointed.

It was an early start getting to Angkor at 7am in order to beat the crowds and also to avoid the midday sun. Very wise as well even though meant up at 5.30. By 9 am the temperature was in the thirties, no breeze and the humidity level was excruciating. There is no way we could have continued all day so the plan was to go to Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom in the morning. Go for lunch then return later in the afternoon when the sun had cooled down a bit. we did manage to avoid the big crowds this way but honestly, by lunchtime, I could not carry on much further without a cool off period. The sunshine is lovely, it is the humidity that gets to you. It is seriously hot.

The heat does not however deflect from the splendour and wonder of the site. Angkor is actually made up of 300 temples, it would take at least a week to visit them all and we concentrated on the main ones. The site is huge and it takes a while to move between temples but there are electric cars and tuc tucs available.

First stop, Angkor Wat. Oh my god, a truly awesome experience and the most beautiful site I have ever seen. It was everything and more than I had hoped for, just stunning. The intricacy of the stone work and the lay out of the temples with all the columns and corridors is just amazing. It has a very spiritual feel about the place. Nothing I can say can do this place justice, hopefully the pictures will go some way to showing the splendour, but this is one thing that really needs to be seen in person to truly appreciate the size, scale and beauty of this magnificent site.




































































The next temple for the morning was the Bayon temple part of Ankgor Thom. Again, a stunning place































So after lunch and a rest from the sun, we returned to the temple of Ta Prom. The trees have not been removed from this temple, so this is the Lara Croft Tomb Raider scene, the images from this film are what led me here. As it was more jungle like here and as it was getting later in the day, there are loud jungle noises in the background mixed without the sounds of the shrieking monkeys that live here in the trees.


















































There are a lot of children around selling bracelets, musical instruments, postcards, books, bags and lots of other nics and nacs. I brought some bangles and then of course ended up with more from another child, more postcards then I will ever need, books, ornaments and all sorts, because I am too much of a soft touch! I was last back on the bus as I could not get out for the mass of children around me chanting 'one dollar for 3'. What an experience.

After a very hectic and tiring day, a quick dinner in the Market of grilled chicken, cabbage and salad, for four dollars with beers to day (pushing the boat out) and quick look around the night Market, then bed! Siem Reap is a beautiful town, there are lots of restaurants, markets and shops. The is a street named Pub Road, mainly made up of restaurants geared to appeal to westerners. The food is good, we had lunch in Champys. However, my preference is still the local Market restaurants where not only is the food good, but you can spend time with the locals. You can buy anything you want here, but of course you must haggle in the Market place! You can also get a manicure, pedicure or massage in the markets or stick your feet into a tank of piranhas for them to eat off your dead skin, if you feel so inclined.

Cambodia, vibrant, lively, friendly and home is just a tuc tuc away!


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Location:National Route 6 (Airport Road),Siem Reap,Cambodia

Monday, April 25, 2011

From Vietnam to Cambodia

For the last night in Vietnam enjoyed a lovely evening meal in the Market place. Ignore what the tour managers tell you about not eating off the stalls, we had a great meal. Four dollars for mixed rice and beers for two, bargain, and the food was delicious. What was also enjoyable was that we sat on a table with two local lads, Doe and Wyn, who could not speak English and we not a word of Vietnamese (we are shameful as English travellers) but we still managed to communicate and shared dishes and had a lovely evening.

Only two of us on the tour are interested in mixing with the locals and eating local, and I think it is a real shame. They have missed out on the unique opportunity to mix with the locals whilst enjoying great food. After a great meal, we were on a mission to see just how cheap you can eat here well.

So I said farewell to Vietnam after a fantastic experience and arrive late in the afternoon in Phnom Penh. Our flight was so late that i did not have time to get to the Killing Fields which was a huge disappointment so will need to go to a smaller version in Siem Reap.

First impressions are that Cambodia is very different to Vietnam. You still see the same busy streets, but the roads are quieter and there is a more stark contrast Between rich and poor. As we only have one night here, we knew we needed to go out and have a good look around. We took a tuc tuc to the night Market and the atmosphere is amazing. It's so vibrant and noisy with a live band playing in the centre of the market stalls. Behind the stage is the food quarters where you can sit on rugs and enjoy an evening meal. We opted for the small plastic tables and chairs. We were given a basket by the waiter and told to pick what we wanted to eat, we chose lots, most of which we had no idea what it was and it was cooked for us with another plate of noodles and vegetables. Total meal one dollar and absolutely gorgeous. We paid for drinks separate and had sugar cane flavoured with coconut for 25cents each. We met up with two other single girls travelling and ate together. Everyone was so lovely, and the locals very friendly. What a brilliant night. When we walked back to the hotel, the streets are full of western restaurants mixed with more conventional local restaurants. I would advise everyone though to go to the local Market restaurant. Amazing experience.









Today we did the city tour of Phnom Penh. In the morning we visited the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. Cambodia is influenced by India a lot and it reminds me very much of Sri Lanka. The Palace complex is stunning and we got to see the throne room, old costumes and even elephant boxes (that royalty sits on on top of the elephants). We also visited the museum of Cambodia, it's is fascinating that it is only in recent years excavations have been undertaken and found so many historical facts and artifacts.

















After lunch was our visit to Toul Sleng Museum, known also as S21. The genocide museum. This complex was a school that was used by the Khmer Rouge to torture and kill a third of the population between 1975 and 1978 in order to try and active a class less society. Anyone not a farmer or manual worker were subject to the regime, including teachers, bankers, lawyers. The complex is now open and you are free to walk around the buildings and cells. There are pictures showing the in mates on arrival, their haunting stare in the pictures is moving. There are other pictures showing the torture that these people were subjected to but what is really eerie is actually walking around the buildings and the cells. There is an awful feeling of despair and the you get a real sense of how awful this place was. It's dark, gloomy, the cells are scorching hot and shackles and chains are bulky into the concrete.


























It is hard to imagine that this happened only a few years ago and during my life time. Atrocities like this are only meant to have happened a long time ago in history. I just cannot comprehend the killing of a third of the nation. Only 7 of the 17,000 prisoners survived! You cannot come to Cambodia and not visit this museum . It is so important in understanding the history of this nation and will amaze you as to how lovely and welcoming they are despite these atrocities.


This evening we took the flight to Siem Reap or the final leg of the tour. A wander around the town this evening , again, very vibrant. The Cambodians have a wonderful sense of humour, are extremely friendly and welcoming and there is no feeling of intimidation whilst walk around just watch the roads, the bikes will not swerve around you so easily like they will in Vietnam. But they have more cars here, Lexus, land rovers, hummers, and they have built fantastic buildings here for the universities and hospitals etc. You can see this country is quickly recovering form it's past. It's just absolutely beautiful here. I am loving every minute.

There are a lot of street beggars though especially children and people disabled from land mines.

Tomorrow, the day is finally here and my dream of seeing the Angkor Wat is here!


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